Everything You Need to Know About Cutting Cuticles

Your cuticles exist to protect your nail beds — but some consider them undesirable aesthetically when rocking a fresh manicure. It’s a common practice to cut back cuticles for a clean look, and while some nail pros swear by the process, others will tell you it may impact your nail health.

According to dermatologists, cuticle-cutting issues really only arise when you overdo it. “I’m not anti-cutting-cuticles when it’s done properly,” says celebrity manicurist Julie Kandalec, weighing in on the debate. “Personally, I use the term ‘trim’ instead of ‘cutting’ when it comes to cuticles. Because that’s really all someone needs.”

Meet the expert

• Julie Kandalec is a celebrity manicurist and educator based in New York City.
• Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
• Linda J. Banta, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in San Antonio, Texas.

Why Cuticles Are Important to Nail Health

“Cuticles serve several important purposes for your nails and fingers,” says Dr. Banta. They serve as a protective barrier from infectious agents like bacteria and fungi, help to regulate moisture in the nail bed to prevent nails from becoming brittle and dry and support healthy nail growth. Additionally, cuticles also have nerve endings that make them sensitive, helping you avoid injuries by making you aware of how much pressure you’re applying to your nails and fingers.

Reasons for Removing Cuticles

“Sometimes, trimming cuticles really is necessary during a manicure to ensure proper adhesion of nail enhancements,” says Kandalec. Plus, when cuticles are super overgrown, they can take up valuable real estate on your nail bed, shrinking the amount of room available for polish.

It’s important to note that when cuticles are removed, you have to be gentle and as conservative as possible to ensure there is enough cuticle left over for them to serve their purpose.

Cuticle Cutting Risks

“Just like anything, when done properly by a professional with sterile tools, cutting cuticles is fine,” says Kandalec. Note her use of the word professional—without proper education and technique, it’s really easy to cut off too much.

“Cutting cuticles completely causes an opening, which can create an entry for bacteria and other organisms, increasing the chance of an infection,” says Dr. Marisa Garshick.

Additionally, over-cutting cuticles can disrupt the natural growth pattern of your nails and “can lead to ingrown nails that can cause pain, swelling, and potential infection,” says Dr. Banta. “Improper cuticle cutting can result in chronic cuticle damage, affecting the appearance of your nails and causing the surrounding skin to become rough and irritated and more susceptible to infection.”

How to Safely Remove Cuticles

1. Soften Cuticles

“Cuticle-removing creams offer a good option to help reduce their appearance without leading to irritation,” says Dr. Garshick. “Creams can also help to soften the cuticles, which can be helpful for someone who prefers to avoid having cuticles looking dry or cracked.”

Kandalec says the Deborah Lippmann Cuticle Remover ($22) is a great option.

“I have always done a dry manicure, which starts by using a cuticle softener like the Deborah Lippmann and never [includes soaking nails] in water,” she says. Dry manicures are often considered safer than wet manicures because the cuticle can’t be over-softened in a way that yields over-cutting.

2. Push the Cuticles Back

Using a clean tool, you can push back softened cuticles and then clean them with a cotton round. “Pushing cuticles back helps to maintain the natural barrier and protects the base of your nail,” says Banta. “This helps to minimize and prevent the risk of infections and, in turn, helps to support nail growth and maintain the natural structure of the nail.” Still, you have to be gentle and avoid being too aggressive as you push.

In a salon, a manicurist may also use an e-file to remove excess cuticle skin. “For the past three years, I have been doing 95 percent dry manicures using e-file and extremely fine diamond bits to exfoliate the dry skin, so the need for trimming (or cutting) at all is little to none,” says Kandalec.

3. Trim the Cuticles

After the cuticles are softened and pushed back, you should have a pretty clean canvas. But if you’re confident in your judgment (or that of your manicurist), you can go forth with a little trim. Use sterile snippers, and take care to remove only extra grown-out bits so the base of your cuticle remains intact and in action.